Tailoring: – defined:
The craft of sculpting shape or completing a garment from cloth.
The purpose of tailoring is to use the body’s shape, so that the garment’s shape is maintained.
A good tailored cut is defined via the absence of wrinkles. Rumples are such that can be pressed out.
The silhouette of a suit is it's outline and should not be affected if a jacket is unbuttoned. The silhouette starts from its high armhole and falls to hug the jacket hem.
Beyond measurements the best garments are made from individual patterns that are reshaped after fittings and client return convenience and consistency. A proper garment starts with a collar that hugs one’s neck holding the front and back in place for the body to affect the wool's shaping properties. mesh.
Key to authentic bespoke or custom tailored fit is
1) A full chest with collar holding straight the lapel that points to the button at the actual jacket waistline.
2) Straight flat shoulders leading to a creaseless sleeve head draping to the arms concave ends and where the thumbs convex starts. (allowing 3/8 to ½ “ of shirt contrast)
3) The “x” Factor is made by lines comprised of lapels past the 1st button straight to the hems. These lines cross in an x, (where the button is) This is why the second button is rarely used. This is paralleled and strengthened by the silhouette.
4) For double the suit life assure slacks zero tension.
Custom or bespoke creates shape as the essence of a hand tailored suit. Good tailoring anywhere in the world is characterized by strongly tapered sides and natural shoulder. More casual summer type suits have less construction and where formal tailoring is less appropriate accept for subjective choice. Tailors of course can do good alteration work and custom shirts, but the real fine custom tailors or bespoke suitmakers are rare and usually have a clientele to care for firstly.
There are 4 ways to make suits.
1) Ready made; a tempting and often hasty convenience that over time reveals wrinkles from poor positioning leading to contortion leading to revealing fit issues;
2) The made to measure that uses measurements to a clients cloth choice or suit style, simple length issues and basic horizontal measurements; Best for people that are happy with off the rack basic body shape but need these features.
3) The custom tailored suit, bespoke tailored suit or a tailoring-designed suit that has interim half-made fittings and sometimes is cut from an actual personal pattern. Here is where balanced garments are found.
The acid test of authentic tailoring standards is the absence of wrinkles that comes from poor tailoring.
STeven R Pelman custom tailoring designer, Vancouver , British Columbia est 1973