Frequently Asked Questions
A so called tailored suit (readymade ) is a commercial term that that suggests that it is not sportswear but a tailored style that can be adjusted to shape. The word retailer comes from the word tailor over 100 years ago, when tailors first purchased the new coined term sizes of suits. They then re- tailored them. This involved taking the backs, sleeves and collars off. This is quickly done, but rarely practiced today as recutting and sewing them back together is extensive and qualified work.
A Made to measure generally today is a half canvas garment, meaning it is made as most readymade are produced. Accept it is individually cut from a standard block with alterations. Some better made to measure can use more variations than the block. One must be cautious as shape in one’s body cannot always be properly recovered from simple measurements. This has been known by smart men for hundreds of years. The results are suits fit that is less than 100 % fit.
As a rule, less than 80|% fit. See www.planet-tailored.com
Bespoke today means the best thereof. When a garment is bespoke it cannot be improved, arguably making it one of the world’s best garments. The should be no wrinkles, only rumples that can be pressed out. This is achieved with qualified hand work and bespoke cutting.
Bespoke cutting is when the person that measures also cuts and makes a pattern for his “Custom”-er. Many inexperienced startups utilize this commercial term without actually paying respects to the craft. AS there are very few tailoring schools left and it’s easy to get started, its hard to achieved high standards with every newly shaped client. As well selling and understanding being a crafts supporter have its conflicts. Selling involves confidence that often outweigh capabilities.
The squeeze test of the cloth is a tight 5 second fist that allows a bounce back of the fibers. Good virgin wool has long strands where recycled wools have shorter strands that are the cheapest cloths. Usually fibers used for overcoats. There are 3 types of cloth;
- hard finish for good wear, such as hopsack, gabardine, faille, twill, sharkskin and tonic.
- Soft cloths are good for shaping or tailoring, such as flannels, and worsteds (soft hairs taken out)
- Then there is a combination of the first two for the better cloths. These make up the world’s best cloths. A hair that is harder on the back and softer on the outside will shape better. This combination will also wear better as the hard side of the hair acts as a backbone to support the cloths shape.
A suit is not suitable unless its represents the individual to some degree. If its price that makes you decide, that will reflect in your attention span to understand value.
6) What are the values associated with an authentic tailored suit, a readymade suit, a bespoke suit or a custom suit?
In a world of mass produced garment, things that are scarce or rare have value. Most values are simply a liquidity or an ability to convert to cash. This is often how people think. This is on a material level. Although not all of live is material and much of the good life is the ability to balance spirit derived with the material levels. Often this gets spoiled or decadent and is unsustainable that leads to one’s personal casualty or as we say in the clothing business, casual without an agenda. One needs personal values that include spirit. Without a deep agenda this is not possible. No matter how one acquires their suit they need to have it fit so that it lasts and allows one to build a wardrobe, rather than replace. Given that one appreciates conservative and classic styles; one is branding themselves or becoming a positive image in their realm or circles. It’snobody’s business your suit fit, so don’t expect a positive response from your detractors or prospects.
Brand names have value when you are sure of proper fit. See www.planet-tailored.com
Brands tend to have better cloths and higher mark ups. You will only find more untested cloth styles on sale. If you do find a basic cloth color in a brand name beware the quality will be at its lowest. Companies tend to milk their brand name for markup and clearance techniques. This is where the brand wins, the retailer winds and the customer loses when he has to have alterations done often doubling the costs of the suit. This is an old game. The worst brands for this are more advertised brands such as,Prada,Gucci, Dolce and Gabbana, Armani, Ralph Lauren, Burberry, Hugo Boss,Michael Kors, Perry Ellis, Burberry, Paul Smith, Tom Ford and Versace.
Critical thinking and competence is the main value for a man today. Not being stuck on a budget but having some flex room to ascend to higher values over the cost is part of a dynamic man’s success.
Sometimes power saving is good, but understanding how image, people and networks work is part of life a life well lived.
If a suit slack is tight in the seat and the pockets pull open, you will not have a suit after 10 – 20 wearings.So you do the math. Good tailors can do much in their $85 per hour rate. But its best to find a suitmaker and have them check over a suit that you bought subject to your showing it to your tailor for cost estimates. To be really smart you want to cut out the retailor if possible and have a “$4000 suit look” for a $1000 and have it part of an evolving tailored section of your wardrobe that is planned. To complete your wardrobe with a tailored section you can best start with slacks, sportsjackets, then suits and coats. With a planned and balanced wardrobe (built over time), you can then create 2-3 new outfits with each new slack and shirt. This will add value so that you need not worry about the price as much. Especially after you experience the results and how you feel. As well knowing that surrounding suits do not fit gives you a value and a smart non-weather ice breaker. Everyman wants to know how much you paid for your suit and who is your tailor.
Dressing is one of those necessary evils since the garden of Eden. We are a visual species and we need to harmonize with our surroundings to survive. Zebras are camouflaged from the tiger. When they are marked with red paint; they are the first ones to go. As humans we can dare to strut or stand out when we are a scarcity to attract, employers and prospective partners. So the vibrations we give out are not just visual but cerebral as well, our manners and personal energy and respectfulness. We need to learn that the absolute suit is nothing if we do not respect ourselves, ironically this comes from the art of respecting others. The objective here in dressing is to be of use to others while being a scarce commodity. In act is being able to return a compliment after an exclamatory “Thank You”.