planet-tailored - Samson Wardrobes

TAILORING IS THE CRAFT OF SCULPTING SHAPE SO THE BODY SUPPORTS THAT SHAPE

1) WRINKLES ARE FROM POOR FIT,

2) RUMPLES CAN BE PRESSED OUT.

3) CUT OUT THE MIDDLEMEN, DEAL WITH A DESIGNER,

4) WHEN IT FITS, IT LASTS.

#1 MISFIT

THE RIGHT CHEST

(on the right)

On the left, lapels break due to the garments lack of chest fullness or handwork. Better bespoke is slower using hand work to shape a chest. Jackets should be trim at the waist without a wrinkle at the button.

#2 MISTAKE

LOW RIGHT SHOULDER

Most men have a low shoulder creating this uncomfortable, hasty looking crease.

MISFIT #3

THE RIGHT CHEST

On the left, lapels break due to the garments lack of chest fullness or handwork. Better bespoke is slower using hand work to shape a chest. Jackets should be trim at the waist without a wrinkle at the button.

MISFIT #4

COLLAR FIT IS KEY

The collar must hug your neck to assure proper balance. Collars hold the jacket in place so the body shapes it further.

MISFIT #5

SLEEVE WRINKLES

Sleeve wrinkles are a sign of tailors hiding their rear view mirrors. Resetting of sleeve takes 2.5 hrs of qualified work .

MISFIT #6

LOW ARMHOLES

Many jacket armhole are too big and sleeves too wide. This way if sells faster. But when an armhole is higher and comfortable, arm movement is maximized. Sleeve are trimmer as a consequence of cutting with high armhole. Ready mades with large armholes cannot be reduced.

MISFIT #7

LUMPY SHOULDERS

Lumpy shoulders show that tailoring is needed to mimic clients shape to endure comfortably and naturally. This issue is not obvious on a new garment, but will get worse.

See a real tailor for strong lasting shoulder shape.

MISFIT #8 BELOW

BOXY WAIST AND SEAT

This means a jacket is not balanced on a mans shoulders. This sets off hemlines when unbuttoned.

MISFIT #9

PRE-CUT BUTTON HOLES

When sleeve button holes are pre-cut, this makes proper shortening time consuming as the sleeve has to be removed.

MISFIT #10

FAILURE OF FUSING

( half Canvas )

If you dont buy pure wool this can happen to you. Pressing is very temporary, hence the term, getting taken to the cleaners.

MISFIT #11

FAILURE TO CUT FOR SLOPE SHOULDERS

Jacket shoulders are not sloped for client so wrinkles appear. Adding pads are often temporary.

MISFIT #12 TAN CHECK

SHOULDERS TOO WIDE

Bottom jacket buckles on chest because bought oversize to fit big back. Many men need one size in back and a smaller size in the front. Try Made to measure to have the whole jacket look best.

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