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How A Suit Should Fit: A Tailoring Designer’s Advice

How should a suit fit? This is maybe the last thing on a man’s mind, but understanding the suit or your chosen classic outfit is an asset. When you use it and enjoy it because it feels good, it works. If you want your world to be better, start with your area of influence and your listening skills for others needs for collaboration, and even competition. 

The suit or outfit that fits says it all; in a man’s tradition and language. You only need one outfit to define you or start a conversation. Choosing the simple classic that gets used will fit into your lifestyle. 

I’m Steve Samson. People call me a tailor but I am a tailored suit cutter and designer like in London’s Savile row. Cutting suits is a fine skill to reduce fittings and support suit makers. I see fit and can tell you that when it fits correctly it’s arguably the world’s best. Your choice of cloth and style is your own prerogative. You need not look like someone else but a man does need to complete his wardrobe and make it enjoyable. 

Choose the right tailor

Choosing a tailoring designer who needs to know your needs first, then find the classic look online. In a new post-pandemic world dressing well is evidence of optimism and some prosperity. The beauty of this rare ideal for fit is local service and employment. 

Value vs Cost

To consider fit one must consider long-term value. This takes good experience in tailored clothing for entry level buyers. If a cheap suit lasts 20 wearings due to poor cloth and pant fit it’s actually more expensive per wear than a good suit. 

How a wool slack should fit

A wool slack that fits should have a lightly lined back or you can order a made to measure outfit with an extra slack to double the looks and life of your outfit. Your tailored wool garment fits when it works for you for years. When it’s a classic cut it’s never out of style. 

How should a suit jacket should fit 

To see fit start with no excess but a wrinkle-free jacket waist. Real tailors make shape great. So when you’re standing still, arms relaxed, your jacket and slack would be mostly without wrinkles. 


Wrinkles suggest stress and dysfunction with your body. They can not always be tailored out. Rumples just need steam or pressing. Good wool, when cut right, shapes better – reducing wrinkles. 

Smart men with shape are cutting out the retail salesperson and alteration cost. More men are planning ahead to have it made from a reputable, reasonable tailoring designer. 

Having an ally in a personal designer is wise to share some added value beyond material, like dressing not just for respect but to respect. Successful fit takes curiosity and integrity. Curiosity is key to understand. Understanding why fit is enduring, allowing you to build rather than replace your tailoring. It fits your dynamic lifestyle when you enjoy dressing up a notch. 

Try it with some regularity, it will compound interest work in the background while you enjoy your personal brand or identity. 

Integrity is defined as one’s completion of coming together to a whole. This also implies competence and with tailored sculpting strength. Good character fits when you add a little quality. Men fit better in the world when they give up their need for love and find out they can give or be needed. You fit into a suit or look suitable when you can be confident and be a benefit. 

The jacket silhouette creates vertical integration fitting into the slack crease it’s fitting when you get the right cloth and is the next building block for your quality tailored end of your wardrobe. 

How slack pockets should fit

Fit is a slack pocket that is relaxed and lays flat. Fit is shape in the seat, this shows strength and drape in the leg shows an easy elegance. Wrinkles in the pant rear and thighs will kill a pant and two your suit. 

How tight should a suit fit?

Dimples are wrinkles, they appear on the top sleeve. It’s due to a back that’s too tight. Tight may be your idea of a tailored garment – but it is wrong. Shape and drape is the goal of an excellent suit. If a garment is too tight and wrinkles, you will look too cheap to pay a tailor or like you put on weight or like you eat badly and or are addicted to working out. 

Fit means personalized. Here the value is far higher than the cost for one with good habits and reputation, this is priceless, as one enjoys dressing. How about the added motivation to slowly improve your food and taste for long-term health. Plan your wardrobe, plan your meals, plan your life. 

How a good suit makes you look taller

Tailored outfits can give you height or stature. As a cutter I use the X Factor. The jacket front and back hemline when unbuttoned should be even to the floor. I call this the bottom line on fit. With this the silhouette is maximized. This is popular for my work in the film industry to make actors look taller as most men don’t button up. The X Factor allows the jacket to stay closed without buttoning. This is a sign a fit of the world’s best. 

The problem with broken lapels

A broken lapel does not fit. It’s actually a wrinkle. It comes from a cheap suit with no chest shape. The lapel must sit flat as this cannot be fixed and will get worse. Buying direct from a tailoring designer will get you more chest shape and a flatter lapel. 

How a jacket collar should fit

Your jacket collar needs to touch the neck. Most tailors hastily take out horizontal wrinkles on a jacket back. This pulls down the collar preventing it, and the neck, from holding the jacket front and back in place. This keeps the jacket in newish shape. Note this collar gap is common even among supposedly successful millionaires. Without critical thinking we all fail. When we fail on fit we fail on supporting local talent for service. The rich often fail when they are brand worshipping most. Europeans know that crafted collars are key to holding the jacket front and back in place. So the body beautifully shapes a wool jacket. 

The proper length of a suit jacket

The length of a jacket should not be obviously too long or too short. The jacket length should be to one of the three areas of the thumb. The thumb nail for a tall man, the knuckle for an average height, and the thumb top for thin or short men. The jacket sleeve length should show 1 cm of shirt sleeve. It should not shorten the shape of the hand. 

The problem with cotton casual looks

If you are a smart, personal investor I recommend a classic suit length to build your wardrobe foundation. Fashion or cotton casual garments are shorter or more stylish, less serious and therefore less important. 

The proper length for pants

The pant length for a medium width hem should create an A or a dollar sign resting on the shoe. On a trimmer bottom you should show a couple of cm above the shoe for socks appeal. 

The danger of wrinkles

A subtle wrinkle on a new jacket will contort into permanent wrinkles usually beyond easy tailoring. When the garment fits right it will last, look, and be elegant; it will be bespoken of your experience. Often greater than many men’s tailor. Smart men make their suit work for them for simple pleasures or comfort. 

Pitti Uomo

Join us at the Italian Pitti Uomo event in Florence. Here is a gentleman’s answer to burning men, perhaps even a profound challenge to our tribal tendencies. 

Today with online reviews there’s no excuse to not see fit before you buy anything. Know that you should cut out the middleman to get better expertise. The web is also prompting hastiness today, so a good fit will show well when it fits it’s rare and rare today is rich. 

Fashion is fun, feminine, and frivolous; classic is men’s staying power. When it comes to choice just think – would Bond do it? Yes Bond James Bond. 

Book a free fitting consultation

Samson Suit Styler offers an online Zoom consultation and for bespoke fit purchase. 

Also a design career without sewing or cutting with suitable startup fees. Graduates can become highly competitive, reports showing $100,000 in your third year. If you’re looking for a high valued Made to Measure bespoke suit, book a guaranteed fit consultation with my zoom appointment. 

We’re glad you asked how a suit should fit. Thanks for staying the course, enjoy your dressing.

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